Pinwheel Bow/Ornament :: Tutorial

My family moved to Tennessee 22 years ago in hopes of making a better life.  We loaded up a truck with the basics...children, furniture, beds, clothes.  Necessities.  We left our family for what felt like a move to a foreign country.  Nashville.  It was a culture shock and I often wondered what had we gotten ourselves into!

We had very little money and lived in a two bedroom apartment, but we made do.  Our first Christmas was approaching and I realized we didn't have any Holiday goodies to decorate the tree.  I bought a few boxes of cheap ornaments, we strung popcorn and made ornaments to fill the tree.  Christmas on a budget.  

I was finishing up my Secret Santa gift for our Guild Holiday party on Saturday, when I remembered about that Christmas.  The kids and I made little pinwheel ornaments using fabric and I tried to remember how I made them back then.  Which I couldn't!  But I did come up with a version just like what I remembered.  

I thought it's the Holidays!  I should do a tutorial!  They could be ornaments, bows on a package, gift tags or a bow for your hair...and they are so simple to make!  I hope you like them!

PINWHEEL BOW/ORNAMENT
3", 2" and 1 1/4"

The pinwheels come in three sizes: 3", 2" and 1 1/4".  You can embellish anyway you choose!  Glitter, jewels, buttons or beads!  Be creative and enjoy!

Supplies:
Steam-A-Seam or lightweight double sided fusible interfacing
scrap fabric 
small button

Below is the cutting chart for each pinwheel size.  I've also included center measurements and the corner cuts. 





I'm using Steam-A-Seam and it works great.  You can also use a lightweight double sided fusible interfacing as well. 

For this tutorial, I'll be making the 3" pinwheel. 

  

Step 1:  
Cut your fusible web and two (2) fabrics to 3 1/4".  I have allowed an extra 1/4" for trimming and fusing.  



Step 2:
Layer your squares.  Fabric 1 is wrong side up, interfacing and fabric 2 right side up.  Fuse together and set with your iron.

Trim to 3" square.  

  

Step 3:
Mark the center of the square at 1 1/2" with a dot, and 1 1/4" diagonal lines from the corner towards the center.



Step 4: 
Using sharp scissors, cut each corner along the line.



Step 4:
At this point you need to decide which fabric will be the back and the front.  I used the green for the back so it showed when folded over.  

Make a knot at the end of your needle and thread.  Going through the front, poke your needle through to the back and come back up to the front.  This way when the corners are sewn the knot will be hidden.  



Step 5:
Push your needle through the point and draw it through.  

  

Continue around the block until you have all four (4) points done.  



Step 6:

Add your button and secure it tightly.  






Step 7:
Add a hanging string and you are finished!  I used floss for my pinwheels.  You could also use tiny ribbon or a pin.  I even thought double sided tape or foam dots would be great if you wanted to put it directly on a package.

*Because of the raw edges, there will be a bit of fraying.   



If your looking for something quick and easy to make with a handmade touch,  these pinwheels may be the perfect project!  

I'd love to see what you come up with...please tag me on Instagram: @twiggyandopal, or email me: jaynebug{at}comcast{dot}net, #pinwheelbowtutorial

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X-Squared Block :: Tutorial

It finally happened!  I finished a tutorial!  This 16" (finished) 'X-Squared' block is fast fun and so easy.  Great for beginners, perfect for scraps and you'll love the results!

16" Blocks = 64" x 80" Quilt

The PDF pattern is available through my Craftsy Pattern Shop where I have also included a 10" (finished) block and a coloring page for the block.  While bigger can be better, it's always nice to have options!

16" x 16" (finished)

Let's begin, shall we?!

Choosing your fabric is arguably the biggest challenge for this block.  I had a color combination in mind when I made mine using corals, pinks and peach.  And I knew it was going to be as scrappy as I could get with the fabrics I had on hand. 

This block is made up of four (4) blocks assembled together to make one large block.  It's as easy as it gets!

CUTTING:

White:
(4) - 4 1/2" x 4 1/2" Squares
(4) - 5 1/4" x 5 1/4" Squares

Four (4) Assorted Prints:
From each print, cut the following:
(1) - 5 1/4" x 5 1/4" Squares
(1) - 4 1/2" x 8 1/2" Rectangle

Four (4) Assorted Solids:
From each print, cut the following:
(1) - 4 1/2" x 4 1/2" Square

Step 1:

With right sides together, pair one (1) 5 1/4" print squares with one (1) 5 1/4" white squares.  

Draw a line from corner to corner and stitch 1/4" on either side of the marked diagonal line. 

Cut along the marked line and press seams towards the print.

Repeat for the remaining three (3) HST's.

Trim each HST to 4 1/2" x 4 1/2" square.  

 ***For one (1) block you will need one (1) HST.  The 2-in-1 method makes two (2) HST's in the same print or color.  If you are making a large quilt, you will need to cut an additional 4 1/2" x 8 1/2" print rectangle and one (1) 4 1/2" x 4 1/2" white square.

Step 2:  
Following the diagram, pair each 4 1/2" HST with one (1) 4 1/2" solid square.  Orientation is important!  This unit along with the next unit need to match up.

Stitch the two (2) squares together using a 1/4" seam allowance.

Press seams open.

Repeat with the remaining three (3) HST's and solid squares.  You will have a total of four units. 

Step 3:

Place one (1) 4 1/2" white squares right sides together on top of one (1) 4 1/2" x 8 1/2" print rectangles.

Draw a diagonal line from the top left corner to the bottom right corner.  Stitch along the diagonal line.

Trim 1/4" from stitch line (red line in diagram) and press seams towards the print.

Repeat for the remaining three (3) rectangle prints.  You will have a total of four (4) units. 

BONUS HST's!!

Before you trim the corners off these units, draw a line 1/2" from the diagonal corner line.  Stitch along the diagonal line and the marked 1/2" line, trim between the stitched lines.  You will have a bonus HST to use in a future project. 

Step 4:

Matching prints, pair the each section together.  Following the diagram for orientation, stitch the two sections together and press seams open. 

 Assemble the remaining three (3) blocks.

Step 5:
Layout your pieces.  Match seams, pin and stitch.  Press seams open.

Finish the block by matching seams, pin and stitch the two sections together.  Press seams open.

And viola!  You have completed one big beautiful X-Squared blocks!

For a quilt using a 4 x 5 layout of a 16" block, your quilt will be 64" x 80".  Or a 3 x 4 layout will be 48" x 64"!  See...options!

I would love to see what you make with this block!  A quilt, a pillow, a mini quilt?!  Email me a photo to jaynebug(at)gmail(dot)com, or tag me on Instagram using @twiggyandopal and #xsquaredquiltblock!

And remember...the PDF pattern is available in my Craftsy Pattern Shop!

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Glitter :: Clear Vinyl Placemat Tutorial

They say 'a little glitter never hurts' and I think that might be true!  Unless you get glitter in your eyes, its not hard to be happy when you see it.  

It wasn't long ago when my daughter came home from her best friends house with her very own glitter-tastic placemat.  Truth is, that was over 20 years ago.  Carrying on the tradition of crafting with friends, Britt and I introduced her God-Child Vincent, to the joy of glitter a few months back.  

In sharing with you, I'm hoping you will introduce a child to the fun and joy of crafting. Quality time well spent!

Where do you find clear vinyl?  It's readily available at Joann Fabrics, or online fabric shops such as Fabric.com.  If neither of those are an option, consider a clear vinyl shower curtain! You can get different weights or gauges whether you are buying by the yard or buying a shower curtain.  

I've used 8 gauge, 12 gauge and recently 20 gauge.  The 20 gauge is much thicker than I thought it would be and frankly too thick in my opinion.  I recommend 12-14 gauge.  

The three main supplies needed for these placemats are clear vinyl, 'bling' such as glitter, confetti, sequins and thread.

Start by cutting your vinyl.  Cut two (2) 12" x 17" rectangles.  They say size doesn't matter...and 'they' would be right!  You can make them any size you wish.  



Cutting vinyl can be a little tricky.  It slips, slides, sticks to the ruler and it's hard to see. But don't let that stop you!  I line an edge on my cutting mat and carefully lay the ruler on top using the lines on the mat.  Using your rotary cutter, cut your vinyl rectangles one at a time.  

One bonus of the clear, you can easily see when you have your ruler lined up.  



Vinyl is sticky and will stick to your sewing foot or sewing machine table.  You don't need to buy special accessories or gadgets, instead with a couple tips and tricks you can use what you have!  

If you have a teflon foot, like the white one on the left, you certainly will want to use that. Otherwise put a piece of masking or painters tape on the bottom of your regular foot and it will work just as well.



Tape a piece of tissue paper on your sewing machine table prior to sewing the vinyl.  This will keep the vinyl from sticking.  I tried it for the first time and can say it works like a charm!



Lay the two (2) pieces of vinyl together lining up the sides.  Take your time and try not to get frustrated!  Vinyl is sticky and you may need to adjust it a couple times.  Clip around all sides. Whatever you do, don't use pins!



Lining up the side of the foot with the side of the placemat, stitch around all sides leaving at least a 5" opening.  Increasing your stitch length to 2.6-2.8 helps.  Backstitch at the beginning and end.  

 

It needs to be big enough for your hand to fit through.  I would suggest taking a scrap of vinyl and do a little practice stitching.  You can then decide what stitch length to use and feel how the vinyl sews. 



Now the fun begins!!  Grab your sparkle supply!  



Some of the bling will slide easily in between both pieces, some will stick like glue!  What I do works for me, but use your expertise or judgment when inserting the glitter.  I put some in my hand, insert it through the opening and wiggle it into the corners.  And repeat some more.  



Add as much or little as you like.  Disclaimer:  you will have glitter, confetti and sequins everywhere!!

When you have it just the way you like, sew up the opening.  Just to make sure none of the glitter escapes and because I like the look better, I stitch another line around the entire placemat. Again I use the edge of the vinyl as my guide with my foot, but I adjust the needle by moving it to the right.  You could even add a pretty decorative stitch.   



The very last thing I do is trim the corners round.  And that is that!  It's fun, festive and kids will love it!  And, it cleans up with the wipe of a rag after each meal!



How fun is that?!  If you have any experience with vinyl and have your own tips or tricks, please share!  Were all looking for things that will make our sewing experience easier.



Good luck and if you happen to make one or two...I'd love to see them!

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Glue Basting A Zipper :: Tutorial

As promised, I have a tutorial for glue basting a zipper!!  Many of you most likely can stitch a zipper in like no one's business, and then there are people like me (tell me I'm not alone?!) who almost always have issues.      



This tutorial will show you what I do to ensure little or no slipping and sliding when installing a hidden zipper for pillows.  

Please Note:  I use the Hidden Zipper Tutorial from S.O.T.A.K Handmade.  I follow each step, with the exception of pinning the zipper in place.  



Gather your supplies: Quilted pillow top, two backing fabric pieces and your zipper of choice.



I happen to have this glue by Roxanne, but I also have Elmer's Washable Glue.  Both are perfect!  If you are using Elmer's Washable Glue, twist the cap half way open to restrict the flow. You don't need a special tip at all!



Marking the zipper with the width of the pillow back is a great idea.  That way you have a better chance of lining up the back panels.  Also make sure you center it between the zipper stops.



Squeeze a thin bead of glue from the markings to the middle of the zipper.  Lay your panel on the zipper lining it up at the mark.  

 

Using a hot dry iron (no steam), press and hold the iron on the fabric/zipper.  It doesn't take a long time, maybe 30 seconds.  Move the iron along the zipper until set.



Once the first half is set, I repeat the same process for the last half.  I do one half at a time so that I don't make a mess and get glue everywhere!  If I can make a mess...I will!

 

See!  The glue is magic!  The panel is secure to the zipper and it's nice and smooth.  The truth is gluing takes very little time.  I would almost bet it takes me longer to pin than glue! Plus, I'm not getting stuck with pins! 



The next step is stitching.  Just follow the tutorial and you can't go wrong.  Another bonus with this tutorial is you can use your regular foot!  I adjust the needle to the left or right until it's where I want it to be.  



Top stitched perfection! 



Glue baste the top panel following the tutorial and viola! no puckering, slipping, sliding or shifting!  



Lay the quilted top right sides together, pin and stitch around the edges.  I always add 1/2" to my pillow back fabric in case things don't quite line up.  However, with glue basting it has become less of an issue.  Just a friendly reminder, and it is stated in the tutorial...be sure to open your zipper before the final step!  Been there, done that!



For a more finished look and to prevent crazy fraying when washed, I zig zag around all four sides.    



That's it!  I've done my fair share of zippers over the past few years and nine times out of ten I have some issue with them.  Shifting or puckering, sliding or slipping.  Perhaps that's why I have never been comfortable installing zippers...ever!  After glue basting half a dozen now, I'm confident that this method is the answer to my zipper phobia!

I hope you give it a try if you have any of 'my' issues with zippers.  You just might want to adopt me after you give it a go!  

How do you feel about zippers?  Do you have a 'go to' method?  Or maybe some tips and tricks?

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